Sorry, I just realized I did not post this under "Range Reports."
Finally Running Well
My P380 required two trips to the mothership because of failures to feed, eject and stovepipes. The first trip, they could not find a problem. I did not clean it prior to sending it back the second time. They verified problems and replaced the barrel. Malfunctions decreased but persisted after 1000+ rounds. Finally, in desperation, I used a felt tip dremel pad and Flitz to polish the feedramp, throat and chamber. As per Kraigster's advice, I lightly sanded and polished the rails and the top of the polymer frame. I also polished all interior surfaces and used more T25B grease and Eezox than usual. This is the kind of fluff and buff I would expect to be necessary on a Keltec but not on a Kahr. I went to the range with fear and trepidation that I'd wrecked the gun. The action was amazingly smoother. It ripped through 125 rounds of Hornady hollowpoints. I think this is sufficient to pronounce it ready for carry. In your experience, do Kahrs require more lubrication than other autos? Your thoughts?
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IMO no, but evidently yours does. I wold have thoght aftert 1000 rounds that it would have indeed smoothed itself out. guess the ol fluff and buff stuff works on kahrs when they need it. My feed ramp was almost mirror shinny but I still polishe dit and the chamber well. never messed with the polymer rails as they were perfect and they were not touching the slide at all, once on the gun. I use TW25 100% of the time and darn little oil. the TW 25 IMO is the best and it willnot run and will stay put and not dry out either. Military uses it big time. I like the syringe tube as I can run a smallline of TW 25 right down inside the slide rails with no mess.P7 said:My P380 required two trips to the mothership because of failures to feed, eject and stovepipes. The first trip, they could not find a problem. I did not clean it prior to sending it back the second time. They verified problems and replaced the barrel. Malfunctions decreased but persisted after 1000+ rounds. Finally, in desperation, I used a felt tip dremel pad and Flitz to polish the feedramp, throat and chamber. As per Kraigster's advice, I lightly sanded and polished the rails and the top of the polymer frame. I also polished all interior surfaces and used more T25B grease and Eezox than usual. This is the kind of fluff and buff I would expect to be necessary on a Keltec but not on a Kahr. I went to the range with fear and trepidation that I'd wrecked the gun. The action was amazingly smoother. It ripped through 125 rounds of Hornady hollowpoints. I think this is sufficient to pronounce it ready for carry. In your experience, do Kahrs require more lubrication than other autos? Your thoughts?
Sounds like you got the issues solved to...
Thanks jocko. Your feedback is always helpful. I did not realize T25B was available in a syringe applicator. Will order some today. I'm just pleased to have the thing working. Given the price and availability of ammunition, I've wondered if it might be cheaper and easier to buy my next Kahr from Cylinder and Slide. They can do the reliability stuff before I even see it.
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