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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have long wondered if some of the failures reported from some owners could be simply the wrong placement of the recoil springs. Yesterday, I inadvertently resembled my CW380 and put the flanged end of the inner spring in wrong. Of course I got that grindy feeling and the gun would not fully return to battery. I knew what the problem was right away. However it seems you have to be very careful when placing the inner spring into the larger one.
What is interesting is that my Bersa 22 specifically states to place the Flange end facing to the top. I take the inner spring and basically screw into the larger spring so that both the flange ends are perfectly set together and the small spring is all the way to the top. Otherwise, it is easy to get a biding of the spring. May this is irrelvent, but the OCD in me wants it perfect. And of course, sometimes it is the small matters that count.

 

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Good post..........if the spring is put on the guide rod with the open end to the flange, the spring can ride over the flange and jam up the slide. The diagram is a nice touch..........
 

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Lol, yes, very good post! Typically I know I’ve got them in right because of how hard it is to get those springs to not poke though the guide rod hole in the slide during reassembly!


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Another important bit of info that maybe over looked in the manual is this. I have been guilty of this not only in the Kahr but other firearms as well.

Note: Do not load an individual round into the
chamber and then close the slide. This can damage
the extractor. Only chamber rounds from
the magazine as described above.
 

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I find it the springs easier to reassemble if both points of the open ends are together pointing either up (12 o'clock) or down (6 o'clock). Makes it easier keep them from sticking out of the hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I find it the springs easier to reassemble if both points of the open ends are together pointing either up (12 o'clock) or down (6 o'clock). Makes it easier keep them from sticking out of the hole.
Lol, actually I was trying to convey that in my original post. Exactly what they said with the Bersa. Thanks for clarifying that.

 

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I have long wondered if some of the failures reported from some owners could be simply the wrong placement of the recoil springs. Yesterday, I inadvertently resembled my CW380 and put the flanged end of the inner spring in wrong. Of course I got that grindy feeling and the gun would not fully return to battery. I knew what the problem was right away. However it seems you have to be very careful when placing the inner spring into the larger one.
What is interesting is that my Bersa 22 specifically states to place the Flange end facing to the top. I take the inner spring and basically screw into the larger spring so that both the flange ends are perfectly set together and the small spring is all the way to the top. Otherwise, it is easy to get a biding of the spring. May this is irrelvent, but the OCD in me wants it perfect. And of course, sometimes it is the small matters that count.

Hi,
Excellent advice and diagram. I went to the Kahr site for a video info listed here: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=kahr+p380+disassembly&t=lm&iar=videos&iax=videos&ia=videos&iai=kmFHUxDwBdM
This shows the full diss-assembly and reassemble. I saw somewhere guys said the new spring was longer and wouldn't fit so they cut off some of the one end of the inner and outer springs.
Well, the spring guide as shown in your diagram must be placed correctly back into the slide. Usually what happens is the unflanged part of the pin does not set into the slide correctly
which will keep the flanged part unable to correctly fit. This happened to me recently when I bought new springs and guide for my used P380 I picked up the other day. After a few attempts it fit.
I almost went with the CW 9 but the P380 is perfect for a CCW. I changed out the sites to the TFX PRO.Put on Pearce mag extender and really feels better. First post.
 

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Hi,
Excellent advice and diagram. I went to the Kahr site for a video info listed here: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=kahr+p380+disassembly&t=lm&iar=videos&iax=videos&ia=videos&iai=kmFHUxDwBdM
This shows the full diss-assembly and reassemble. I saw somewhere guys said the new spring was longer and wouldn't fit so they cut off some of the one end of the inner and outer springs.
Well, the spring guide as shown in your diagram must be placed correctly back into the slide. Usually what happens is the unflanged part of the pin does not set into the slide correctly
which will keep the flanged part unable to correctly fit. This happened to me recently when I bought new springs and guide for my used P380 I picked up the other day. After a few attempts it fit.
I almost went with the CW 9 but the P380 is perfect for a CCW. I changed out the sites to the TFX PRO.Put on Pearce mag extender and really feels better. First post.
Well done......
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Also, newer replacement springs can be longer than the one sipped in the pistol of older P and CW models. These definitely improve the performance of the pistol's cycling function.
Do you know when the changed this. Do you know the size of the new springs? This is interesting. I had a feeling they were going to change the spring. It is the same weight?
 

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Where do you guys buy new springs? Direct from Kahr, or somewhere else? I wouldn’t mind seeing if I could get slightly longer ones, as my slide seems a bit lazy coming into battery.


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Do you know when the changed this. Do you know the size of the new springs? This is interesting. I had a feeling they were going to change the spring. It is the same weight?
I think the newer springs seem longer because they’re less compressed. If you want to check, count the coils.
 
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Where do you guys buy new springs? Direct from Kahr, or somewhere else? I wouldn’t mind seeing if I could get slightly longer ones, as my slide seems a bit lazy coming into battery.


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I buy mine from Kahr, and boy are they a PITA to install in a CW40! I changed mine once at 'bout 1500 rounds! I'm near 3,000 +/- now and 'prolly should change it again!

After 'bout 200 rounds on a new spring, they git easier to remove and reinstall! :grin:
 

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I got them from KAHR for my P380. A little more effort to get in.

A side note: I got back today from the range and the slide worked flawlessly. The slide stayed open after the last round in the magazine was fired.
But, when I started cleaning I noticed inside the slide where the striker spring is the striker block is next to it.The striker block was discolored. Further examination showed it was of a different color looked like it was worn in a spot.
I used a small pick and was able to
lightly remove a small piece of coating. It seemed like the striker block had a chrome kind of coating? So, if something can flake off/peel it could get lodged somewhere.
I ordered a new striker block from KAHR and a striker block spring. Had to get a kryptek hat too.
In addition, I went to Lakeline LLC pistol accessories: https://lakelinellc.com and ordered the P380 Super Striker that comes with a matched spacer as well.
Gonna call KAHR tomorrow and let them know about the striker block wear and seems like a flake or peeling.
Not sure if you can see it in my upload after this reply . Anyway preventive medicine is the best.
 

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I got them from KAHR for my P380. A little more effort to get in.

A side note: I got back today from the range and the slide worked flawlessly. The slide stayed open after the last round in the magazine was fired.
But, when I started cleaning I noticed inside the slide where the striker spring is the striker block is next to it.The striker block was discolored. Further examination showed it was of a different color looked like it was worn in a spot.
I used a small pick and was able to
lightly remove a small piece of coating. It seemed like the striker block had a chrome kind of coating? So, if something can flake off/peel it could get lodged somewhere.
I ordered a new striker block from KAHR and a striker block spring. Had to get a kryptek hat too.
In addition, I went to Lakeline LLC pistol accessories: https://lakelinellc.com and ordered the P380 Super Striker that comes with a matched spacer as well.
Gonna call KAHR tomorrow and let them know about the striker block wear and seems like a flake or peeling.
Not sure if you can see it in my upload after this reply . Anyway preventive medicine is the best.
Yup, I would definitely replace that piece! Unsure if that is a MIM part or not!
 

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I got them from KAHR for my P380. A little more effort to get in.

A side note: I got back today from the range and the slide worked flawlessly. The slide stayed open after the last round in the magazine was fired.
But, when I started cleaning I noticed inside the slide where the striker spring is the striker block is next to it.The striker block was discolored. Further examination showed it was of a different color looked like it was worn in a spot.
I used a small pick and was able to
lightly remove a small piece of coating. It seemed like the striker block had a chrome kind of coating? So, if something can flake off/peel it could get lodged somewhere.
I ordered a new striker block from KAHR and a striker block spring. Had to get a kryptek hat too.
In addition, I went to Lakeline LLC pistol accessories: https://lakelinellc.com and ordered the P380 Super Striker that comes with a matched spacer as well.
Gonna call KAHR tomorrow and let them know about the striker block wear and seems like a flake or peeling.
Not sure if you can see it in my upload after this reply . Anyway preventive medicine is the best.
Yup, I would definitely replace that piece! Unsure if that is a MIM part or not!
 
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Yup, I would definitely replace that piece! Unsure if that is a MIM part or not!
Today the follow up with KAHR went very well.
Below is a paraphrase from my conversation with the Technician:
He said the striker block is a MIM piece that is plated.
Normally the plating process will last if the part is prepared and completed properly.
Sometimes the preparation of the part is not done correctly and can lead to a peeling of the plated item at a contact point.
This has nothing to due with lubrication to the area when the firearm is completed although lubrication should be applied as directed to parts per the manual.

At the end of the day they found my parts order,put it on hold until I send them the slide.
They will repair the item with new parts.
NIce thing is by just sending in the slide portion of the firearm I do not need an FFL to send it or a Return Authorization per KAHR.
He said approximately a week and half to 2 week turnaround.

Very happy with the support.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I buy mine from Kahr, and boy are they a PITA to install in a CW40! I changed mine once at 'bout 1500 rounds! I'm near 3,000 +/- now and 'prolly should change it again!

After 'bout 200 rounds on a new spring, they git easier to remove and reinstall! :grin:
When I first get new recoil spring and Magazines. I will let them take a "SET" before placed in the pistols. I rack the slide and just let it sit for a few days. People often look at a recoil spring that is new and compare it to a used spring and notice that the new was is shorter. This does not mean the older spring is worn. It just means that it has found it's "Set". However, I also change out my recoil springs on a regular basis and always buy batches of springs to keep on stock, not just one spring.

I have been a avid Air Rifle enthusiast for decades. I own and shoot some very High End German/English Spring Powered air rifles. AKA "Springers". These are expensive rifles, anywhere from $600 on up to $1500.00 or more. While these guns have high quality Springs, Many shooters will take out the Spring of the new gun and replace with a Spring from a after market vendor that specializes in extremely high quality springs. And depending on which spring you buy, they will list them as "already Set".

I doubt Manufacturers of semi-auto's take the time and expense to "Set" every Magazine or recoil spring. Take a high quality magazine and in most cases the springs are very strong. Too strong and they need this Set at the beginning. Or you will get too much pressure forcing the top round to chamber. And they will be very strong on shooting until broken in. And many new guns will not funtion properly until the recoil spring is broken in.JMO
 
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