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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
can u see that little hole under on the bottom of the slide by #9. That is a perfect clean out hole for the striker channel. All one needs to do is insert the spray nozzle of his cleaning agent in there and spray away and everythingwill comeout the backof the slide. IMO there is NO REASON to take that slide apart to clean that area. That hole is there for a reason. Never lube that striker channel either, everything insde that strker channel is stainless and never lube that sriker channel.

I have over 18,700 rounds through my PM9 and I have never taken that strker assemble apart. I have taken the back plate off the slide to install the 5# wolffs striker spring but that is as far as I have went, as I have no reason to fix what is not broken...

that little hole is also on the new P3890 also for easy cleaning access...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
camper said:
Jocko, Thanks for that cleaning tip.
same thing for cleaning the lower section of ur kahrs to. A good spray cleaner will clean out everything int he lwer part of the grip and then just relube with oil. I like a spray oil in that section as I can hit the trigger area and cover it all. There is no need to grease anythingin the lwer section.

If you will go to NAPA and buy the #m (black can) high pressure non cholorinated brake spray cleaner, thisis the cats nuts guys. Abot half thepriceof Gun Scrubber. willnot harm any polymer and ries instantly and cleans to the point that you must relube those areas that need lubed. It will clean that good. Exdellent for the firing pin channel and also by inserting that spray nozzle right behind the extractor,youcan blow clean anythignin that area also, without dissambly. But put a few drops of oil behidn that extractor area after spray cleaning. I havenever taken that area down in my PM9 in 18.700 rounds. There just is no need to do so.

Also leave that side plate on the right side alone. the more you take it off the more chances u have of stripping that area screw out. It is there because kahr had to design the polymer grip with an open area to insert the cocking cam etc. It is not a blow out shield as some have said it is, although if you have a k-boom, that will certainly go first. Leave that side plate alone PERIOD..

Everythingon your big kahrs are on the P380, so if ur familiar witht he bigger kahrs, the P380 will be a peace of cake.

Can't wait to see what Kahrs nite sites are going to look like...
 

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Thanks Jocko. Just got my CM9 and cleaned it up (got rid of factory grease) and lubed it. Got most of the areas you showed (It's pretty instinctive with most weapons) but plan to disassemble again and redo just to make sure I got everything.

It is a bitch getting the slide stop out of the frame, but if it is like my SIG it gets a little easier with time.

Thanks for the pictures. As they say they "are worth a thousand words"
 

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When in SE Asia in '65-'66, I observed how the high-speed interface [ slide/frame ] of my 1911 would collect grit and mung on extended deployments and camping trips away from decent maintenance. Scary how the slide would not carry the next statement into battery. I never found out what that oil was, but it had a real magnetism for grit. Once, on a day pass, I went into Da Nang, and bought a 6B drawing pencil [ soft lead: more graphite to the binder proportion ] and, after cleaning the pistol in avgas, I drew good and thorough graphite grey down the rails' interface. Kept the petrogoo for the rest of the machine. No hangups on slide movement thenafter. No hangups on slide movement since that time, with a Goldcup, and my current standard 1911. My CW40 gets the same strokes, and seems to like the tickle. Has anyone of us experienced such a thing as I?
 

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I'm running mine almost dry, with the really short rails and the slick blade like things in the dustcover I don't see a problem with to much friction.

I wet a q- tip with terra and Lightly hit the rails. Mine doesn't pick up crap, not really even when I pocket carried. Have stripped to clean the lent and dust bunnies before and there's none!
 

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I'm new here but not new to handguns. With all my handguns I've always used ATF (automatic transmission fluid), it is an extreme pressure lubricant (has to be to keep all the internal gears working inside a transmission). It is light enough to where it will get into tight spot and stays there. Not too much of a problem picking up dirt or lint. The Colt 1911A1 I used to have had a good service life, just about no wear visible on the moving parts after about 9000 rounds cycled through it. Sure miss that one, it never had a single hick-up, no miss fires, no FTE or FTF.

Now with the MK9 Elite 03 I cleaned it right after I brought it home from the dealer, and applied the trusted ATF on it too. First firing at the range today it worked flawless, happy camper here!
 

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Trans fluid is just 20 weight oil with red dye, with some anti foaming agent and some friction additives for the ford type.
 

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Interesting thread, good info
 

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So is non-C brake cleaner for sure safe to use on the CW380? The can from NAPA isn't any different then any other automotive no C brake cleaner correct? I just want to be 100% and make sure there not something going on with the brand of cleaners I don't know about.
 

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One of my fishing reel handles started melting using the non c break cleaner.

The I wouldn't spray either on my pistols.
 

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I always bought the non c, the other leaves a white film, and stinks more...

I never used it on brakes, unless there was a axle seal problem.
Ain't nothing cleans brake fluid like plain old water...
 

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As little as gun cleaners costs and lasting a long time why not use something that is made specially for cleaning guns. I thought about Brake fluid but why not use something that is made specially for cleaning guns and not have the concern?
 
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With todays polymer guns i would be concerned about damage to the finish
 

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I could probably just get the gun cleaner. The problem is that it is expensive. $14 bucks for a can of gun spray vs. $3 a can of brake cleaner. That's why I was hoping it was safe to use.
Since I don't shoot that often, I think of it as 4 seconds of spray cost me close to $15 bucks.
I already have to spend $16 on a tiny bottle of gun oil. Plus I have to buy another gun cleaning kit on top of 4 boxes of .380 :CB-280508-0:
Cheapest place I found gun spray is at Fred Meyers that have a gun department.
 

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I understand trying to save bucks. I may be wrong but if memory serves me correctly you can buy non spray stuff in a bottle and apply yourself and save some bucks. Bottom line is after spending to get the gun you want to take the best care possible. Also these items last a heck of a long time and go a long way.
 
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