I stripped the CM9 apart when a little trigger grit was aggravating my 'Type A' self. You know the type. It's ugly! The trigger bar was a mess. Well, it was sort of OK as a normal trigger bar, but you know what I'm driving at. I already had it apart at one time to clean things up when it was new (what, a week or two ago?) and even stoned things down here and there, but it wasn't enough for us anal types. This time I took the trigger bar to my old Corvette hot rod project shop, AKA garage, full of nasty powerful tools, and worked of that piece of stamped steel. Alot! Cause it needed alot! And "alot" isn't even a word! Moving on... The Dremel was my friend. I started with 220 grit, then 320 then 600 and finally got to the rouge. White. green, the the very fine red. Holy mother of God it was shiny and smooth! The secret was to polish any contact surface, of course, and the primary villain, the lower edge where the trigger bar spring slides while cycling the trigger. I just kept at it until it was smooth and super bright.
Three beers and unusual French cuss words later, the trigger, spacer spring, bar, doohicky, were back in place and I was ready to give her a whirl.
What a difference!
Talk about butter smooth! I can't detect the slightest tic or bump or anything other than a super slick pull on the trigger right through the break. Amazing. You know how you can usually pull the trigger back at a normal speed and it feels just fine, but at very slow creeping speeds you'll feel the bumps and grit and surges? Not now! Pulling the trigger back very very slowly and deliberately transmits zero feedback other than gliding along to the break. How impressive is that!
The circled area in the pic shows where the trigger bar spring rides while pulling the trigger. That's the area to focus your attention.
I was wondering if the trigger bar was difficult to remove? I have polished the striker and internals to get smoother trigger pull and that is the only part left to polish. If there are instructions please do tell.